Visit the Chamonix Ice Caves on the Mer de Glace Glacier
The Chamonix ice caves (or ice grotto) in the Mer de Glace glacier is a great way for families, non skiers (or skiers just taking a day off!) to spend a morning or afternoon in Chamonix and is included in the Mont Blanc Unlimited ski pass. This is what differentiates Chamonix from other ski resorts. Stunning, unrivalled high mountain scenery which will take your breath away. Don’t miss this. Walking through the Chamonix ice caves, touching a real live glacier and being high up within these majestic mountains is unforgettable.
For an unforgettable stay in Chamonix, consider staying a night in the newly renovated Terminal Neige, Refuge du Montenvers (above). We stayed recently and were blown away by the magic of the mountains when all the sightseers have taken the last train down. You can read our review here.
Take the Montenvers train up
Take the steep Montenvers rack and pinion train up the mountain to access the Mer de Glace glacier and the ice caves. The ice caves are included in the train ticket so once you’re up there, there’s nothing more to pay for unless you want to have lunch or a refreshment on the observation deck cafe.
The Montenvers train is Chamonix’s oldest tourist attraction. The crimson, toy like train has been shunting sightseers to arguably the most stunning mountain scenery in Europe since 1908.
The Montenvers is not to be confused with the other Chamonix rack and pinon train, the Mont Blanc Tramway, which takes you up to the ski slopes of Les Houches from St Gervais or Le Fayet offering spectacular Mont Blanc views. This is another great family day out and a wonderful way for families to ski AND hang out with older members of the family who don’t ski. You can read our post about the Mont Blanc Tramway here.
Starting out from the Montenvers train station in centre of Chamonix, the train takes you up to the Mer de Glace glacier and the newly renovated Terminal Neige Montenvers hotel. The Montenvers train station is just behind the main train station in Chamonix. There’s a bridge crossing the track over to the Montenvers.
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Read our post
Touching the Void experience
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Walk through the ice caves, drink in the spectacular views over the glacier, learn about these great hunks of ice in the glaciorium and visit the small crystal exhibition. Expect to spend around 3-4 hours up there, including the train up and down.
Kids will love the excitingly steep 20 minute train ride up. Tip: Try to get to the Montenvers train station early to get your tickets and queue as this train gets busy and often there are no seats left. Sit on the left hand side if possible to glimpse the stunning mountain scenery in between the fir trees.
Make sure you wrap up warm. Even on a sunny day in Winter, it’s can be bitterly cold up at the Mer de Glace. Wear hats, gloves and warm clothes!
The Montenvers is a rack and pinion railway which starts in Chamonix centre taking you up to the Mer de Glace and Chamonix’s ice caves
Trains leave every hour from 10.00am from the Montenvers train station. If you want to get a prized window seat (best for kids) then get there about half an hour early. It’s a 20 minute journey to climb the steep track around the Aiguilles de Chamonix, through thick forest to reach the top (altitude 1913m)
Once you’ve caught the Montevers train up the mountain, there’s a bubble that takes you down to the glacier and down to the Chamonix ice cave
After you disembark the train, make sure you visit the ice caves first! Take the cable car down to the beginning of the walk way.
There’s a bewildering 415 steps down to the ice caves after the cable car down, so do it while the kids have still got the enthusiasm and enough energy.
Anybody with mobility issues will not be able to access the ice caves as unfortunately there is no other way down than the steps.
The snaking tongue of the Mer de Glace glacier
The short cable car ride gets you up close and personal to the glacier. At 11kms long and over 200 metres thick, this monster glacier is the largest in France. It can look underwhelming with it’s dirty grey coat of rubble but once inside the ice caves you can see the real beauty of the glacier.
Fabulous views of one of the most famous peaks in Chamonix – Le Dru (3754m) from the cable car.
The ice caves in Chamonix are freshly dug out each year
The long winding walkway down to the ice cave wasn’t too much of an effort even with a five year old.
Don’t rush it and take breaks to enjoy the scenery, because altitude can play havoc with your breathing!
Can you see the holes? These are the entrances to the ice cave. Because the glacier is moving constantly, a new ice cave is dug out every year. Only one hole will be used as the entrance to the ice cave whilst the other holes you can see, are the old ice caves from previous years and no longer used.
The ice caves are the finishing point for skiers skiing the famous off piste run, the Vallée Blanche which starts from the Aiguille du Midi. Dwarfed by the immense size of the glacier, spot the tiny specks of skiers zigzagging across the snaking sea of ice.
See climate change for real as you walk down the stairway. Every so often there are signs indicating the level the glacier reached over previous years. Sadly, it makes you realise how quickly the glacier is retreating.
Entering Chamonix’s Mer de Glace ice caves
Chamonix’s ice caves are surreal – it’s a real experience going inside
The ice caves are really exciting – even for the adults. Because the ice is so dense it appears blue.
The girls were fascinated.
touching the ice!
Touching a real live glacier – so smooth and COLD!
Inside the ice caves, there are ice sculptures with atmospheric lighting and there are mats on the ice floor to stop you from slipping.
Our favourite sculpture was the polar bear! There are plenty of ice seats to sit down for a rest.
It doesn’t take long to go around the ice caves but it’s definitely worth it. How many times can you say you’ve been inside a glacier! Now it’s just the climb back up the steps before you can have a refreshment. If you’re visiting in the afternoon, expect to see a lot of skiers making their way up. They’re returning from the long off piste run, the Valley Blanche.
This is the bribe, sorry treat, that you can keep reminding your child of, as they climb back up the 415 steps from the ice caves. Not a bad view to have with your chocolat viennoise (5.50 euros)
Grab a hot chocolate or refreshing beer and enjoy fabulous views on the deck of new restaurant/café, Le Panoramique. You’ve earned it!
There’s also a small free crystal exhibition near the observation deck. I expected the girls to enjoy this as they love crystals but they pronounced it ‘boring’ as there it was mostly the same crystal (quartz fumé) on show. We whizzed through in a matter of minutes.
Lunch options at the top are either take a picnic to snack on (but beware it’s chilly) or eat at Le Panoramique bistro. There’s only 40 seats in the bisto’s cosy interior so it’s essential to pre-book a few days in advance on +33 4 30 05 19 66. It’s a great place to warm up and have lunch (a real treat with fabulous french dishes) but if your kids are fusspots or if you’re on a budget then forget the bistro (see menu options & prices below).
The gift shop (boutique) also serves cold drinks & has tables for you to sit down.
Le Panoramique bistro, wedged in between the observation decks, has fabulous views and serves fantastic french fare. The children’s menu costs 13.50 euros for a main and an ice cream. Choose from steak haché & mashed potato, white fish & green beans or pasta with ham. Adults can dine on appetizers such as soup (14e) smoked trout (12e) or foie gras (14e) or assiettes (plates) of charcuterie or local cheeses from 14-21 euros. Example mains, braised beef cheeks (24e), lamb shanks (26e) or traditional Pela (creamy potato dish) for 22 euros.
Grand Hotel de Montenvers
Before you trundle back down to the valley, walk round past the imposing Grands Hotel de Montenvers which during our visit was closed for renovations. It has since re-opened as the Terminal Neige Hotel.
Another fabulous view of Le Dru and the Grand Hotel du Montenvers which, built in 1880, has sheltered the earliest adventurers and mountaineers from the early pioneering days. Now the newly renovated Terminal Neige hotel.
The glaciorium
Whilst you’re up at the Mer de Glace, did you know there’s also a very interesting glaciorium onsite. It’s well worth a visit.
A visit to the glaciorium can be as short as 5 minutes or as long as you want. A vault of information, it has interactive fascinating displays. It’s lovely and warm inside, a welcome break from the cold outside.
The kids loved the 5 minute film clip of the life of a glacier with it’s 3D simulated avalanche in to the valley (above)
My girls loved finding out about these microscopic animals called tardigrades. Able to live in extreme conditions, tardigrades can survive in glaciers and deserts. In 2007 tardigrades were taken to space by the Russians and were the first multi-cellular animal to survive in space, it’s DNA staying intact. Wowser!
It’s also interesting to see the tools with which glaciologists measure important stuff. For example this wheel measured how far the Argentiere glacier slides (30cms a day in the Summer!).
Have you visited the Mer de Glace and the Chamonix ice caves? What did you think?
Montenvers ticket price:
If you have bought an Unlimited Mont Blanc ski pass either for the day or week, then the Montenver is included for FREE. It took us 4 hours to take the train up, walk down to the grotto & back up, visit the glaciorium & have a hot chocolate on the observation deck, all at a relaxed pace. If you wanted to ski in the mornings, with the Unlimited MB pass you could still go up the Montenvers in the afternoon, which makes it good value. Otherwise the ticket prices are below. They include return train trip & the cable car up & down to the grotto steps & entry into the grotto.
Adult: (15-64) 31.50e
Child: (5-14) 26.80e
OAP: (65+) 26.80e
Family pass: 97.70e (2 adults + 2 children + free 3rd/4th/5th child)
WINDY WEATHER – the Montenvers train does not run if it is extremely windy.
TIP: it is not advised to take babies up this high in altitude (1913m). In fact Compagnie du Mont Blanc advise against taking any child under 12 months up to the Montenvers due to fast pressure changes. For young children take sweets for them to suck to help their ears adjust to the pressure.
Make sure you wrap children up warmly – it’s cold up there even in the sunshine, so gloves, hats & scarves are essential.
For more information, visit www.chamonix.com or www.compagniedumontblanc.co.uk
9 comments
gorgeous photos! I don’t really ski but I’d love to do a ski holiday some time (my husband does ski actually)
Hi Tanja thanks so much for your kind words. I do love taking photos! Chamonix could be the perfect place then for you guys – lots to do for non-skiers here rather than a tiny resort, and plenty of beginner pistes too. Thanks for following.
Hi we are a family of 2 adults, 3 teenagers and an eleven yr old. We will be in Geneva for Christmas, and would love to visit Chamonix for 2 day trips ( have a car). I am bewildered looking at ski passes/ ski hires etc etc, and we have no experience of skiing / snowboarding but we are sporty. Also budget is a consideration. Please help. Thanking you .AnneMarie
Hi Anne Marie
Ski passes can seem boggling thats for sure! Compagnie du Mont Blanc do a FAMILY PACK where you pay for 2 adults and 2 children and then the 3/4/5th child go free. I would suggest staying over in Chamonix for the night rather than driving back to Geneva each evening as you will be exhausting from the skiing, particularly if you are beginners. Rocky Pop Hotel in Les Houches is a very affordable and very cool hotel (your teenagers will love it!). If you want to sightsee over your two days then I would recommend skiing in the mornings for a couple of hours and then sightseeing in the afternoon (a visit up the Aiguille du Midi and a journey up the Montenvers train up to see the longest glacier in France, the Mer de Glace. These alone are very expensive but if you buy a Chamonix Unlimited ski pass they are included for free. I would suggest to ski at Les Houches if you are beginners – this is a very gentle tree lined resort at the end of the valley and perfect if you book to stay at rocky pop. I have written an in-depth guide to Les Houches on my website https://thefamilyfreestylers.com/chamonix-ski-resort-les-houches-review/
I love the views but I don’t know if I could climb back up again unless Scott carried me ….We went in the glacier on the Eiger many years ago…….Love and best wishes for the New Year XXXXXXXXXXX
What a wonderful post great pictures very informative love the picture of mum and girls they look like they have enjoyed every minute. Will certainly do this myself on my visit to the mountains.
Thank you Margaret. I’m so pleased that you like our blog. The scenery here is stunning in Chamonix and there’s so many spectacular view points! The Mer de Glace and the Aiguillle du Midi are both must do’s if you come to Chamonix! Thanks for following.
Thank you so much for all your insights! This hotel and the whole experience sounds so dreamy, I booked our family for 2 nights to end our trip to Chamonix.
Oh fabulous! You will have the most amazing time! It’s genuinely one of the best ways to experience Chamonix! Very special!